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Mature Flaneur

Climbing Puy de Dôme: France’s Multiple-Personality Mountain

Auvergne’s most popular hike

10 min readOct 15, 2026

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Puy de Dôme. All photos by Tim Ward

Puy de Dôme, in the Auvergne region of central France, is a mountain of many identities. If it were a person, it would be diagnosed with multiple personality disorder. Of course, it’s not the mountain that changes, it’s how people look at it, and what they make of it: mountain as Rorschach test, if you like.

My recent walk up the puy (which simply means a rounded hill in the local Auvergne dialect) proved more than a hike. It was an encounter with geology, physics, religion, history, architecture, aeronautics, mythology and sports! So please, come with me on the hike, and discover for yourself the many mountains that make up Puy de Dôme.

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Puy de Dôme as seen from the streets of Clermont-Ferrand.

Auvergne’s Most Popular Mountain

When I began my climb one hot August afternoon, I thought I was simply walking up the hump of a dormant volcano. Puy de Dôme is just 1,465 metres (4,806 feet) above sea level, but rises only 1000 meters higher than the town of Clermont-Ferrand in the plains below. Accessibility is a big part of the puy’s charm…

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Tim Ward, Mature Flâneur
Tim Ward, Mature Flâneur

Written by Tim Ward, Mature Flâneur⁠

Author, communications expert and publisher of Changemakers Books, Tim is now a full time Mature Flaneur, wandering Europe with Teresa, his beloved wife.

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We are a group of ordinary yet extraordinary travel lovers sharing our experiences of exploring the world with the world.